Test to make sure it works, and if it does, screw the faceplate back into position.Ī parting word: If want to replace a light switch with a dimmer, you can follow the process described above, but remember-not all dimmers are created equal. Finally, return to the electrical panel and restore power to the light switch. Once all the wires are hooked up, push the switch back into the electrical box and secure it to the wall with screws at top and bottom. If the ground wire had been (and is still) connected to the box, let it be. If the ground wire had been connected to the old switch, complete the wiring by attaching the ground. Move on to attaching the neutral wire to the light switch, using the same technique you used to attach the hot wire. If, however, the switch has push connectors on its rear side, simply guide the hot wire into the appropriate hole. If you’re connecting the wires to terminal screws, twist the exposed portion of the hot wire into a clockwise loop, fit the loop over the brass screw (with the tip of the wire pointing away from the room), then tighten the screw. Now, get the replacement light switch ready, using its on-off labels to help you orient the unit right-side up. Next, starting with the hot wire, begin attaching the wires to the new switch. If necessary, use a wire stripper to expose about a half inch of both the hot and neutral wires. Sometimes, the ground wire is connected to a screw on the electrical box itself, in which case you can leave it alone. This green or bare copper wire is usually attached to a green terminal screw on the light switch, so you’ll need to unscrew it. Finally, note the location of the ground wire. Meanwhile, the white “neutral” wire connects to the silver screw (or goes in the hole on the same side as the silver screw). The black or red “hot” wire attaches to the brass screw (or goes in the hole on the same side as the brass screw). (These are known as “back-wired,” “backstabbed,” or “push-in” switches.) To remove the wires, gently tug on each one while inserting the flat blade of a small screwdriver into the slot beneath the hole where the wire enters the housing.Īs you work, be sure to keep track of which wire goes where, especially if the wires aren’t color-coded. If, however, yours is a newer switch, the wires may connect not to the terminal screws, but through holes in the back of the switch.
Wire light switch free#
If those wires loop around the terminal screws on the side of the switch, simply loosen the screws to free up the wires. Next, pull the switch out from the wall and inspect the wires feeding into it. Now that you’ve taken off the faceplate, proceed to remove the screws that fasten the switch to the wall. If the detector does not register a current, it’s probably safe to continue to the next step, but before you spring ahead, it can never hurt to test the detector by trying it on a nearby outlet that you’re certain is receiving power. (If you’re using a different type of voltage tester, such as a multimeter, follow the manufacturer’s instructions.) Next, to make absolutely certain there’s no electricity reaching the light switch, remove the faceplate and hold a non-contact voltage detector within about a half inch of the switch’s screw terminals. Once you have identified the right breaker, move it to the “off” position. (Enlist a friend or family member to help so you can avoid having to make multiple trips back and forth.) Then, one by one, toggle each breaker and check the ceiling fixture or test lamp to see if it goes off. If it controls an outlet, plug a lamp into the outlet and make sure it goes on. If it controls a ceiling fixture, make sure the light goes on. To do this, you would have to cut the wire in between the two switches to make room for your third switch.To do this, first flip the switch on.
Essentially, you are inserting another switch in between the two 3-way switches. When installing a 4-way switch, you need to have an existing 3-way switch pair. So use 4-way switch wiring to have 3 switches for your lights. Who wants to walk a long way just to turn off a light switch? No one. This method is employed for large rooms and long hallways basically any room that is too large for just one or two switches. And this site to explore more methods for 3-way switching. Go to this link for more detailed instructions. And again, connect the remaining black and red wires to the traveler screws. To connect the power from the light switch, connect the hot wire coming from the light fixture to the common screw of the 2nd switch. In summary, to connect the power from light fixture to the switch, connect the power source to the first switch by screwing in the hot wire into the black screw tie the white and ground wires together, and then connect the remaining black and red wire to the traveler screws.
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